All errors in circuit diagrams, documents and layout are corrected. The circuit as shown below is functional and working. Note that Q2 is sensitive and easily destroyed by wrong connection, shorts, over-voltage or too much current. What does that mean If your circuit does not work immediately and draws excessive amounts of current when you first
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try it you can easily assume that Q2 and possibly T1 will be defective. I included a small list with possible replacements for the major components. I tried a couple of them and seemed to work satisfactory. An email from Mo in England indicates a logarithmic potentiometer is used to better control the current. It certainly does not harm to try that and use whatever works for you. All resistors, except Rm, (metal-film recommended) 1/8 watt (1/4 watt for carbon) & no less than 5% tolerance, unless otherwise posted. C1 = 100uF/16V Electrolytic R1 = 100 Ohm, 1/2 watt 1 red jack C2 = 10nF, ceramic R2 = 1K 1 black jack C3, C4 = 10nF, mica R3 = 1K 1 amp meter, 1 to 6-amp (dc) Q1 = TIP42C R4 = 4K7 1 knob for potentiometer Q2 = NTE123AP R5 = 750K 1 coolrib for Q1 D2 = 1N5401 Rm =. 2 ohm/10W D1, D3 = 1N4002 P1 = 100K D4 = 1N4148F Here is a suggestion for a complete Power Panel IC1 = LM555 A couple possible substitutes, use at your disgression, no guarantees: For Q1: TIP32C, TIP42, TIP42A (or B), NTE332, ECG332. For Q2: 2N3904, BC547, (or A or B), BC550, European TUN. For D1, 3: NTE116, ECG116, try others. For D2: NTE5801, try others. For D4: NTE519, ECG519, other 1N4148x types worked also. For IC1: NE555, TLC555, MC1455, HC555, NTE955M, ECG955, etc. The NTE123A did not seem to work and is not quite the same as the `AP` type. The 2N2222(A) did not work in the prototype and shorted out the circuit. The ECG and NTE/ECG substitutes are...
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