door loock circuit


Posted on Feb 5, 2014

This is a great contribution to the ongoing study of the lock control module, including instructions and photos of how to upgrade the module to reduce its standby current consumption for increased battery life. Assumes that you are slightly competent with electronics. Large (400k) downloadable PDF file. I worked up something on my locks to fix the


door loock circuit
Click here to download the full size of the above Circuit.

problem with the stock logic box. You might have a good time with this and save a bunch of money. Everything I mention here adds up to about $35. 1. Test the lock solenoids by unplugging the lock module and hot-wiring them to battery at the connector plug. Each solenoid has two coils, one for lock and one for unlock. With the large connector unhooked, you can hot-wire each coil in turn to the breaker and see if the solenoids make noise in the doors. You probably have one or more burned out. These can be replaced for $110 apiece, or you can take them apart and rewind them for about $10 worth of wire. These must work before you do anything else, or you`ll just fry everything. Each solenoid coil takes about 70 feet of #20 enameled motor wire. Get from an electric motor repair place. Also make sure that the breaker is good. 2. Open up the existing lock module and make sure the relays aren`t stuck. If they are you can usually just unstick them. The module is not sealed, just slide the tie-wrap off the end and it opens. 3. Go to Trak and buy two 81-89 Chrysler Starter Relays, Gen Automotive #32870, about $12 ea. Also get some assorted colors of #12 stranded wire and a bunch of crimp connectors. You`ll also need two 1N1007 diodes from Radio Shack for about 59 cents. These relays get wired in series with the existing lock module. This means the lock module is now only controlling the relays, and the starter relays are feeding the...




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