Building your own Zapper. 1 Compositor 1 micro farad, C2, I like the un-polarized because it allows you not to worry about positive an negative sides. If you do get one with a longer leg that`s the positive, see schematic for proper placement. 1 resistor for R2 see Fredbuster`s PDF file for specific resistor for frequency. I use variable potentiometers because I like to set exact frequencies myself.
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I use 100k potentiometers, they give me a range from 6hz to 460hz when adjusting. You can see in the below photo I have both the large audio and micro potentiometers. The micro is used to be set at 15hz and the Audio is for creating variable. Black and Red 22 gauge connecting wire, Make sure its the one with multiple threads of copper and not a solid one. Its easier to bend and move. The solid copper connecting wire is to kinky and breaks to easily, for my taste. Next we attach R1 3. 3k resistor. One end goes to pin 8 and the other to pin 7, I bend the legs over the pin then cut off 1/4" longer than the distance to the pin. the remaining 1/4" I bent over and stick in the pin hole. see schematic. You can see how I soldered the connections together. Make sure you are clean and accurate. Other wise a lose connection or overlapping solder will cause the circuit not to work. This takes patients and time, don`t rush it. If you do overlap a connection with solder, heat it up, use another wire to suck up the excess and then use a knife to remove the last bits. I heat the wires first then add the solder. It`s cleaner once you get used to soldering. Takes practice. Here is what the final circuit looks like before it`s place in a box. You can see the R2 I added here. I use a toggle switch to go back and forth between the set resistor and variable resistor. One end of the resistor is connected to R1 where it attaches to pin 7. The...
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