The voltage range will be 0V to 24V and I don`t expect to use any more than 4A. A micro and LCD could probably be added to measure voltage and current. Here is the schematic: Basically the circuit looks more or less OK. Regarding the voltage setting resistors of the 317 I would check the literature, so that you don`t end up bending the rules out of shape. Also you might want to think some kind of range limiter
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resistors in series wiuth the pot. I am not sure if the regulator likes a short in the divider. But then again it may - can`t remember offhand. Its been a while since i played with 317s. Please throw the 2N3055s out and put in something invented during this millennium. The days of those dinosaurs is truly past. Something starting "MJ. " would be the thing to specify in my opinion. Or why not just use a Darlington in the first place. Finally, you seem to have a really exact spec for the ballast load resistor. Do you really need it to be that precise If you need a milliamp, OK but surely 1, 2 mA or whatever you would get from one E12 series component would do as well. probably. and most likely. your LM317 is sensing its output. not the "true" output. so if something whacky going on to the darlington, lm317 will not aware of it. and blimey, if the darling going whacky, its not pretty, esp when you have precious gem on the "true" output. my bet is put the R3, R4 et al at the "true" output. D2 and D4 aren`t rated high enough. They need to be rated the same as D1 and D3. All of the current that goes to your circuit`s ground is going to go through either D2 or D4. With the current circuit configuration, D5 and D6 don`t need to be nearly as beefy. Perhaps you swapped them with D2 and D4 Right now the only current they will see is what gets discharged from C3 or C4. Finally, like Mechatrommer pointed out, the LM317 isn`t in the...
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