At around 50 Khz i can get over 40 volts at the receiver. Light`s LED`s no probs. It even blew a 5mm LED. The cap I had on the AC was blocking the energy. Anyway what I did was connect the primary negative to ground with the secondary on the transmitter, a `real` ground, then the receiver I use the metal plate layed on the concrete, the LED is the same brightness even if the receiver ground is
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connected to the transmitter ground or not, must be what he say`s is an inductive relationship with the ground ( same thing that ruins batteries if they are left on the ground). And I removed the recovery battery. Neons light from the toroids no problem now. Under load with 1 x 5mm LED ( that`s the only LED I have left ) the transmitter toroid reads 2. 5 volts AC and the voltage across the LED is 2. 94 volts. Which seems like good transfer considering they do not share a ground connection and 50 Ma @ 12 volts input. Care must be taken when using caps on the receiver output because the voltage keeps rising to about 50 volts with no load, that`s how I blew the LED. On second thought I think the coupling distance on the primaries is just fine. As Nikola says these things can be adjusted for our own personal requirements, the coupling distance the number of turns the thickness of the wire the input voltage and many other things could be changed in differing cominations to acheive different effects. Looking good! Looks to me that your still not in tune though. These coils are very sensitive once you get them in tune, just putting your hand by them will knock them out of tune and you will see the load drop off when you do. I suspect that your square wave is giving it enough of a ping to get it ringing a little bit and your receiver is picking up the HV field. Try separating the coils at a greater distance like 5 or 10 meters and...
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