Wolfstone Pyrotechnics
Capacitor discharge firing boxes are suitable for specific types of electric match ignition but not for others. Experimenting with this technology can be enjoyable and educational; however, the expense of a commercial capacitor discharge (CD) firing box can be high. CD circuits operate by generating high voltage, storing it in a capacitor for later use, and discharging it all at once. The high voltage generated can be dangerous, and the abrupt release of energy from the capacitor can be lethal. The combination of high energy and its sudden release makes CD circuits as challenging to manage as flash powder. It is essential to adhere to safety precautions appropriate for high-energy electronics. Once the strobe circuit board is exposed, it is crucial to avoid contact with dangerous components (all components can be hazardous). When disassembling a disposable camera, care should be taken to avoid accidental contact with the circuitry. Wearing rubber gloves during this process is advisable, along with eye protection, in case plastic parts or springs become dislodged. Avoid touching the glass envelope of the flash lamp, as skin oils can remain on the surface, trapping energy and creating hot spots that may cause the lamp to shatter. Numerous manufacturers and models of disposable cameras exist, and most can be converted into CD firing boxes, differing only in the specific modifications required. This article focuses on a particular model, the Kodak FunSaver 35 with flash, which measures 120 mm in width, 55 mm in height, and 30 mm in depth. The camera's plastic body is boxy with square edges, enclosed in a cardboard box. It features a switch that must be slid and held to charge the flash. The article does not cover the Kodak FunSaver Pocket, which is slightly smaller, has rounded corners, and is partially wrapped in a sticker instead of a cardboard box. The FunSaver Pocket employs a different flash circuit, requiring a button press to initiate charging and automatically recharges after each shot, posing a hazard for single-shot firing box applications. If the camera differs from the one described, it may be an incorrect model, or Kodak may have altered its design. In such cases, caution is advised.
To begin, remove the plastic camera body from the cardboard box and discard the box. Inspect the battery compartment located on the underside of the camera. If the battery is missing, install a 1.5V AA penlight cell, ensuring it is oriented correctly as indicated by a picture on the case. Locate the "charge" switch on the front of the camera, slide it to the "on" position, and hold it there. Observe the "ready" lamp until it illuminates steadily. Release the "charge" switch, then remove the battery for later use. Point the camera away from the operator and release the shutter; the strobe should flash, and the "ready" light will extinguish. This confirms that the unit contains functional parts and that the energy storage capacitor in the strobe is mostly discharged.
At this point, it is advisable to don rubber gloves, as the energy storage capacitor still retains approximately 40 volts, sufficient to produce a significant spark. Hold the camera with the back facing the operator, as if preparing to take a picture. The right side contains a compartment for the take-up spool. If the photofinisher has not already removed the door from this compartment, do so. Grasp the right side of the back and pry it off the camera body, which has two latches along the bottom and two along the top. Apply sufficient force to open the back like a door hinged on the left. Pull the hinge tabs out of their slots and discard the back. This action exposes the feed reel in the left compartment.
The next steps involve carefully dismantling the components of the camera to access the strobe circuit and capacitor, ensuring all safety precautions are observed throughout the process. Proper handling and awareness of potential hazards are critical to safely converting the camera into a capacitor discharge firing box.Capacitor Discharge firing boxes are well suited to certain types of electric match ignition and ill suited for others. Experimenting with this technology can be fun and educational, but the cost of a commercial CD firing box can be prohibitive.
CD circuits work by generating a high voltage, storing it for later in a capacitor, and discharging it all at once. The high voltage is potentially dangerous and the sudden burst of energy from the capacitor is potentially lethal. The combination of high energy and sudden release thereof make CD circuits as tricky to handle as flash powder.
Know and follow the precautions appropriate for high energy electronics. Once the strobe circuit board is exposed, it is easy to note stay away from the dangerous parts (all parts are dangerous). While the disposable camera is being dissected, take care that you don`t touch the circuitry by accident.
It might be a good idea to wear rubber gloves during this process. Eye protection is a good idea, in case plastic parts or springs jump out. Avoid touching the flash lamp`s glass envelope with your hands. Skin oils will stay on the surface, trap energy, and cause hot spots that might cause the lamp to shatter. There are numerous manufacturers and models of disposable cameras. They are probably all convertible to CD firing boxes, differing only in the nature of the changes necessary to do the conversion.
In order to be able to provide exact directions, this article deals with just one particular model, the "Kodak FunSaver 35 with flash". The camera is 120 mm wide, 55 mm tall, and 30 mm deep. The plastic body of the camera is boxy, with square edges. The body is enclosed in a cardboard box. It has a switch that you slide and hold to charge the flash. The article does not deal with the "Kodak FunSaver Pocket", which is slightly smaller, has rounded corners, and has the plastic box partially wrapped in a sticker instead of a cardboard box.
The FunSaver Pocket uses an entirely different flash circuit. You press a button to start the charging process, and the camera recharges itself after every shot. The automatic recharge is a hazard rather than a feature when making a single-shot firing box. If your camera differs in any way from the one described in this article, you may have the wrong model, or Kodak might have changed their design. In such a case, you are on your own. Proceed with extreme caution. Remove the plastic camera body from the cardboard box. Discard the box. Check the battery compartment in the underside of the camera. If the battery is missing put one in; a 1. 5V AA penlight cell, a picture engraved on the case shows which way it goes in. Find the "charge" switch on the front of the camera and slide it to the "on" position and hold it there.
Watch the "ready" lamp until it goes on and stays on steadily. Release the "charge" switch. Now remove the battery and save it for later use. Point the camera away from you and release the shutter. The strobe should flash and the "ready" light go out. This accomplishes two things: we now know that the unit contains usable parts; the energy storage capacitor in the strobe is now mostly discharged. It is time to dismember the camera. This is a good time to put on rubber gloves. The energy storage capacitor in the strobe still contains about 40 volts, which is plenty to throw a nasty spark.
Hold the camera with the back facing you, as if about to snap a picture. The right side is a compartment that holds the take up spool. If the photofinisher hasn`t already pried the door off the compartment and discarded it, do so. Then grasp the right side of the back and pry that off the rest of the body; it has two latches along the bottom and two along the top. Pull hard enough and the back will open like a door, hinged on the left. Pull the hinge tabs out of their slots and throw the back away. This exposes the feed reel in the left compartment. Throw that 🔗 External reference
To begin, remove the plastic camera body from the cardboard box and discard the box. Inspect the battery compartment located on the underside of the camera. If the battery is missing, install a 1.5V AA penlight cell, ensuring it is oriented correctly as indicated by a picture on the case. Locate the "charge" switch on the front of the camera, slide it to the "on" position, and hold it there. Observe the "ready" lamp until it illuminates steadily. Release the "charge" switch, then remove the battery for later use. Point the camera away from the operator and release the shutter; the strobe should flash, and the "ready" light will extinguish. This confirms that the unit contains functional parts and that the energy storage capacitor in the strobe is mostly discharged.
At this point, it is advisable to don rubber gloves, as the energy storage capacitor still retains approximately 40 volts, sufficient to produce a significant spark. Hold the camera with the back facing the operator, as if preparing to take a picture. The right side contains a compartment for the take-up spool. If the photofinisher has not already removed the door from this compartment, do so. Grasp the right side of the back and pry it off the camera body, which has two latches along the bottom and two along the top. Apply sufficient force to open the back like a door hinged on the left. Pull the hinge tabs out of their slots and discard the back. This action exposes the feed reel in the left compartment.
The next steps involve carefully dismantling the components of the camera to access the strobe circuit and capacitor, ensuring all safety precautions are observed throughout the process. Proper handling and awareness of potential hazards are critical to safely converting the camera into a capacitor discharge firing box.Capacitor Discharge firing boxes are well suited to certain types of electric match ignition and ill suited for others. Experimenting with this technology can be fun and educational, but the cost of a commercial CD firing box can be prohibitive.
CD circuits work by generating a high voltage, storing it for later in a capacitor, and discharging it all at once. The high voltage is potentially dangerous and the sudden burst of energy from the capacitor is potentially lethal. The combination of high energy and sudden release thereof make CD circuits as tricky to handle as flash powder.
Know and follow the precautions appropriate for high energy electronics. Once the strobe circuit board is exposed, it is easy to note stay away from the dangerous parts (all parts are dangerous). While the disposable camera is being dissected, take care that you don`t touch the circuitry by accident.
It might be a good idea to wear rubber gloves during this process. Eye protection is a good idea, in case plastic parts or springs jump out. Avoid touching the flash lamp`s glass envelope with your hands. Skin oils will stay on the surface, trap energy, and cause hot spots that might cause the lamp to shatter. There are numerous manufacturers and models of disposable cameras. They are probably all convertible to CD firing boxes, differing only in the nature of the changes necessary to do the conversion.
In order to be able to provide exact directions, this article deals with just one particular model, the "Kodak FunSaver 35 with flash". The camera is 120 mm wide, 55 mm tall, and 30 mm deep. The plastic body of the camera is boxy, with square edges. The body is enclosed in a cardboard box. It has a switch that you slide and hold to charge the flash. The article does not deal with the "Kodak FunSaver Pocket", which is slightly smaller, has rounded corners, and has the plastic box partially wrapped in a sticker instead of a cardboard box.
The FunSaver Pocket uses an entirely different flash circuit. You press a button to start the charging process, and the camera recharges itself after every shot. The automatic recharge is a hazard rather than a feature when making a single-shot firing box. If your camera differs in any way from the one described in this article, you may have the wrong model, or Kodak might have changed their design. In such a case, you are on your own. Proceed with extreme caution. Remove the plastic camera body from the cardboard box. Discard the box. Check the battery compartment in the underside of the camera. If the battery is missing put one in; a 1. 5V AA penlight cell, a picture engraved on the case shows which way it goes in. Find the "charge" switch on the front of the camera and slide it to the "on" position and hold it there.
Watch the "ready" lamp until it goes on and stays on steadily. Release the "charge" switch. Now remove the battery and save it for later use. Point the camera away from you and release the shutter. The strobe should flash and the "ready" light go out. This accomplishes two things: we now know that the unit contains usable parts; the energy storage capacitor in the strobe is now mostly discharged. It is time to dismember the camera. This is a good time to put on rubber gloves. The energy storage capacitor in the strobe still contains about 40 volts, which is plenty to throw a nasty spark.
Hold the camera with the back facing you, as if about to snap a picture. The right side is a compartment that holds the take up spool. If the photofinisher hasn`t already pried the door off the compartment and discarded it, do so. Then grasp the right side of the back and pry that off the rest of the body; it has two latches along the bottom and two along the top. Pull hard enough and the back will open like a door, hinged on the left. Pull the hinge tabs out of their slots and throw the back away. This exposes the feed reel in the left compartment. Throw that 🔗 External reference