autopilot with rev 2.2 board

Posted on Jul 24, 2012

The servo driver is just simply two 4017 decade counters and lots of 0.1` headers. Only populate the A side headers; the B servo bank is optional and will require a few more header pieces. If you received 20 headers, you'll be short two of them. If you received 25 headers, go ahead and fill it up. You will have to cut the headers to get the 2 pin header for the power supply. There is a mistake (sorry!) in the 4017 power supply. You have to cut the two traces and solder on a jumper as shown. Zoom in to see the trace on the bottom that needs to be cut. The corresponding trace on the top also has to be cut. Zoom in on the next image to see the one to cut on top. Be sure that they are both fully severed; otherwise you will short the power supply and things won't work.

autopilot with rev 2.2 board
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After testing the first pieces, the next step is to add the pitch and roll gyro filters. I apologize for the larger 1/2 W resistors -- I messed up on my DigiKey order. You can subsitute RadioShack 1/4 W 5% or 1/4 W 1% items if you have trouble fitting it together. Note the orientation of the opamp -- it is upside down relative to the one above it. The silk screen image and schematic show it correctly. The schematic shows the yaw gyro filter as well, but for space reasons you may wish to wait until the yaw gyro connection is soldered inplace before attaching the filter components. The gyro filters consists of: 14 DIP socket and OPA432 op amp 2 * 0.1 uF capacitor 2 * 1.0 k Ohm 2 * 4.7 k Ohm 2 * Tokin CG-16D Note that the orientation pin on the Tokin gyro is larger than Murata, so you will have to remove the pin or enlarge the mounting hole. Be careful when you solder the gyros onto the board -- too much heat can desolder the pin inside the gyro. Finish populating the headers, including the LCD, the sensor inputs and so on. Add the two LEDs (not supplied) with yellow into 3 and green into 4; the longer lead is for power and goes into the left hole. The LEDs require a step-down, so solder a 1.0 k Ohm resistor in the two holes to the left of LED #3. The PPM decoder uses an NPN transistor (not included) in the three holes. They are (from left to right) emitter, base, collector. When correctly oriented, the flat...

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