99 suburban tail lights don t work others work fine

The turn signals, hazard lights, stop lights, and headlights are functioning properly. However, the tail lights do not operate when the headlights are on. The bulbs appear to be in good condition, as they were tested by switching the taillight bulb with the turn signal bulb, which worked in the turn signal location for both sides. It is assumed that the inquiry pertains to the operation of parking lights when the headlight switch is turned to the first position. The headlights and high beams are operational, but the tail lights remain non-functional. It is suggested to check the fuse using a test light or multimeter to confirm if power is entering and exiting the fuse. If the fuse is intact, the next step would be to inspect the headlight switch pins for functionality. The recommendation includes acquiring an inexpensive test light or multimeter to verify power at pin H of the schematic and output at pin S when the switch is activated. It is believed that the issue lies with the switch. The switch assembly is available at local parts stores for purchase. A jumper wire test between the specified pins should be conducted before replacing the switch. Ultimately, it was discovered that the problem was a blown fuse (#9), despite previous checks indicating otherwise. After replacing the fuse, all functions were restored.

The circuit in question involves a vehicle's lighting system, specifically focusing on the tail lights, which are not illuminating when the headlights are activated. The primary components of this system include the headlight switch, the fuse box, and various light bulbs, including the tail light and turn signal bulbs. The headlight switch controls the operation of the headlights, parking lights, and tail lights, while the fuse protects the circuit from overloads.

To troubleshoot the non-functioning tail lights, the following steps should be taken: First, verify the integrity of the bulbs by swapping them with known good bulbs from the turn signal circuit. If the bulbs are confirmed to be operational, the next step is to examine the fuse associated with the tail light circuit. Utilizing a multimeter, check for continuity across the fuse to ensure it is not blown. If continuity is present, the headlight switch should be inspected for proper operation, specifically checking for voltage at the input and output pins of the switch.

In schematic representation, the headlight switch typically features multiple pins, with pin H representing the input from the battery and pin S serving as the output to the tail lights. If power is detected at pin H but not at pin S when the switch is engaged, the switch may be defective and require replacement.

In cases where the fuse was initially overlooked, as indicated by the eventual discovery of a blown fuse, it is critical to ensure that all connections are secure and that no shorts exist in the wiring harness. The use of jumper wires can assist in isolating the issue, but caution should be exercised to avoid creating additional faults in the circuit.

In conclusion, the lighting circuit's functionality is contingent upon the integrity of the bulbs, the condition of the fuse, and the operational status of the headlight switch. Each component must be systematically tested to diagnose and remedy the issue effectively.Turn signals work, hazard lights work, stop lights work, head lights work. Tail lights don`t work with the headlights. I looked at the bulbs and they appeared fine. I switched the taillight bulb with the turn signal bulb and it work in the turn signal spot. I did this for both sides. I assume you mean when I turn the headlight switch to the firstposition to get parking lights. They don`t work. The headlights work and the high beams work. What I would do is check the fuse with a test light or multimeter to see if power is coming into and going out of that fuse. If that is OK, it would be time to check the pins on the headlight switch to see if it is working. That would be the next suspect. But I could not say without testing. I would recommend that you get a cheap test light or meter (they are only $5-$10) and make sure power is making it into the switch (at pin H of the schematic) and then comes out when the switch is turned on (pin S of the schematic).

I really think it`s the switch. I looked it up online and found that the switch assy is available at the local parts store. I will buy it and see if the new one works. If it doesn`t, I`ll simply take it back. I`m almost positive this will work. Did you place the jumper wire between the two pins I mentioned above, as a test, before replacing the switch Did you get a test light or multimeter to do some testing It turned out to be the fuse. #9 as you said before. I really don`t get it, because I checked them. I was jumpering across the connector like you said and got no lights, which means it`s not the fuse. Then I tried jumpering across other parts on the connector, like an idiot and heard a small pop. I rechecked the fuse and found it blown. I replace the fuse and all now works. Go figure. Ask-a-doc Web sites: If you`ve got a quick question, you can try to get an answer from sites that say they have various specialists on hand to give quick answers.

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